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EXCLUSIVE: Shyamal and Bhumika on ‘Blooms of Paradise’ at FDCI X Lakme Fashion Week, outfits for Diwali
MD: Fashion designers Shyamal and Bhumika discuss about outfits that look festive, challenging aspect about designing for celebrities, and other details.
We've now become serial watchers of fashion. Courtesy of the FDCI X Lakme Fashion Week and how designers are proving to be great sources of inspiration. As chic glimpses continue to make their way on the ramp, we thought now is the most appropriate time to get much sense of the most-in ensembles that look festive and fabulous. Diwali is almost here and you're now going to sound sorted in terms of the shopping scout. Celebrated couturiers Shyamal and Bhumika exhibited a brilliant line today on stage with Yami Gautam Dhar and this brought with it great excitement and enchantment.
They unpacked their newest SS'23 collection which honoured nature, our history and traditions, museums and so much more. Revisiting the old is now a new thing to be appreciated. If you're on the scout for what can hone in an enchanting look for the festive week ahead. Your options range from shararas, kalidaar kurtas, constructed saris, panelled lehengas, dhoti pants, and everything stunning all that rave about modern designs peppered beautifully with the magnificent play of age-old techniques.
Of the many fashion approaches that may die down, we see a massive and interesting chunk of people wanting to take regular routes of sustainable and eco-friendly practices. This designer duo gave in to handwoven ensembles as well. Look at the fine and regal tone that has been communicated with ensembles curated from matka silk, sheer silk organza, tulle, hand-dyed velvets, and too many that can make a list worth a read.
In an exclusive chat with Pinkvilla, Shyamal and Bhumika spoke to us about their 'Blooms of Paradise' collection and how it has beyond a little something for everyone.
1) This collection is all about journeying through roots, architecture, museums, and more. When and where did this idea stem from?
A: We have been on a mission to take the crafts and skills of India to the World. Being one of the most globally followed Indian designers on social media we have been able to make some headway in our mission and establish a connection between the niche, multi-cultural population abroad and the rich Indian craftsmanship. As our designs evolve to appeal to a larger audience we are taking the crafts of India to mainstream Global fashion. As couturiers, we believe in promoting these ancient crafts and helping in the advancement of those sections of society who would lose not only their heritage but also their livelihood if these crafts are not revived and preserved.
2) Opulence and royalty are the names of your collection's game. Can you name a few craft works that are etched deep in this line?
A: In our SS’23 collection, you can see a variety of rare hand-crafted embroideries in silk and antique-finish metal threads that are playfully mixed with pearls, beads, and colourful resham. We have also used age-old craft techniques like Resham-aari, silk-zardosi, metal-thread Peeta, knotting, sequinned by hand, intricate beadwork, and handcrafted silk threads embellished with crystals in our upcoming collection.
3) Reasons why should one wear ensembles from this collection for Diwali celebrations?
A: With this collection, we have played with our signatures as well as experimented with new silhouettes such as fluid cowls, kalidaars, layered outfits, sensuous blouses teamed with lehengas, sheer jackets over shift kurtas, capes over jumpsuits, new-age shararas, draped skirts with jackets, panelled lehengas, draped flares, corseted bodices, ruffled voluminous sleeves, off shoulder bodices, kalidaar kurtas, constructed saris, trailing dupattas, empire waists, constructed sarees and dhoti pants, all of which work as absolutely stunning and wonderful ensembles for the upcoming festivities.
4) How different is this collection from the ethnic collection you've previously curated together?
A: Our Spring 2023 celebrates our globe-trotting muse, using a poetic blend of hand-embroidered masterpieces, designed using age-old craft techniques in an unusual mix of colours and silhouettes. It is encouraged by a cheerful mood this festive season, wherein we have sought inspiration from nature, our history and traditions, ancient architecture, splendour of the royal courts, museums, and rare private collections. The new line will transport you into a world of fantasy and celebration and celebrates our deep-rooted reverence for the rich culture and heritage of India and the craftsmanship it boasts of, which also shines through this season.
This collection has been designed keeping in mind the festive season. It’s airy and flowy yet festive, perfect for the upcoming Diwali season. The previous couture collection, which was launched with Aditi Rao Hydari was a very heavily embroidered bridal collection. However, this time around, we've planned something more festive and demi-couture, outfits that can not only be worn by the bride and groom but also by the bridesmaids and family.
5) From traditional lehengas to indo-western outfits, there has been a massive shift and growth in what people prefer to wear today. What are your views about it?
A: Definitely there has been a change in people’s preference of what they like to wear today, however in general the shift has been more towards Indian wear. Not only in our country but even the Indian population and the general population abroad prefers wearing more Indian, intricate, and traditional clothes. Indians everywhere seem to be moving closer to their roots. One of the reasons for this could be our craftsmanship and the ability to customize outfits for everyone’s special day. We use a lot of art and craft in our outfits. The bride wants to wear a craft on her wedding and can make it meaningful and personalized customized according to her vision and needs.
6) How would you describe the stress that comes with putting a collection so fine on display?
A: It's definitely not an easy ride, it's filled with constant stress and tension. I would say to be in a line like ours, which is so quick-paced, one needs to be firm about the ideas they have and also have nerves of steel. It really requires nerves of steel for designing a collection, putting up a show, designing the set, and figuring out all the strategies and logistics.
Being a fashion designer in today's time is quite a process. The stress is unbearable but when the show happens and when everything is displayed on the ramp, that's when the stress is relieved for the whole team who put in months on months to bring the collection to life all to be displayed in the span of a night. It is beautiful seeing all the pictures on the ramp. It is quite an indescribable experience.
7) How many outfits does this collection entail and what do these have in common?
A: In this collection, we have over 40 different outfits. Every piece in this collection features a deep emphasis on sustainable, eco-friendly, and handwoven collections, the designers have lustrous raw silks, hand-woven matka silks, sheer silk organza and tulle along with some hand-dyed velvets for a touch of opulence.
8) How challenging does it get to design outfits for celebrities?
A: It can be very challenging but at the same time it can be very exciting as well. Celebrities have their personal life and taste, so it's a very fulfilling experience to listen to and understand their vision of what they want their outfit to look like, and then to have to blend their vision with ours to create something new is absolutely magical.
9) What is the best thing about you two as fashion designers?
A: We have been working together since we were twenty years old and have grown with each other and shared our differences. Working together has been a wonderful journey. The division of roles is fairly complicated and often overlapping as we tend to take over each other’s responsibilities. Bhumika is the technical expert and the fashion designer and I am the entrepreneurial creative director who dabbles with multiple collections and creative business ideas. We have both given our lives to the building of the brand but most importantly we have grown together as individuals and are committed to each other and our families.
10) How do you stay as relevant as possible in 2022 in a world where we're flooded with countless fashion trends?
A: Despite the countless fashion trends that come and go, we believe that it’s extremely integral to stick to your brand’s values. We remain faithful to our vision of taking "India to The World" using Fashion as a medium to connect our global audience to intricately crafted Indian Couture. With our timeless designs, we have always aimed to create a perfect balance between tradition and a global aesthetic, and have hence, successfully established an overseas presence as well.
11) A couture collection from your shelves that is most close to your heart and why?
A: Every collection is our baby and all our collections are very close to our heart. Each one of them has its specific flavors and uniqueness that we love about it.
12) What does it feel like to be back on the stage after a year?
A: We’re thrilled to be back on stage after a year. It’s definitely stressful but that’s every time we have a show. So yes, definitely really excited.
Did you watch the show? Can you rate Yami's look on Pinkvilla's #OMB scale? (ON-FLEEK, MOOD, and BLAH).
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